LFW Bitesize: What You Might Have Missed
So many shows and presentations to keep up with across five days of London Fashion Week can make it easy to blink and miss something. Too busy Snapping? Or Insta-mentioning or storytelling? (No one Tweets anymore). Exactly. Among the moments you might have missed, we pick some out here.
Emilia Wickstead Fashion Show Ready to Wear Collection Fall Winter 2017 in London (by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)
Jeans at Emilia Wickstead! Well, I never! It’s usually dainty dresses for ladies that lunch from this designer, she specialises in elegance and a certain refined dressing. Of course that could be clocked here via geometric prints, but she added a layer of real-casual with the denim, sporting a pair of jeans as she took her bow too.
Peter Pilotto. We noted them before but they’re worth another mention – those jewel-encrusted shoes and those blingy tongues.
The most daring of trousers came at Osman: tiered, flared and sequined. By which we mean: all at once.
Was it single-breasted or was it double-breasted at Berardi? The designer combined the two design structures for standout jackets among this collection, which explored fitted waists and billowing skirting, fine lace eveningwear to end.
Pringle’s great first look! An off-the-shoulder knitted number that masterfully tied at the back, this was a brilliant and strong first look for the brand – for whom it would have been more beneficial had they continued in this vein. Florals and streetwear confused matters later.
It’s all very well seeing clothes wander down the catwalk, but sometimes it’s useful to show you can move in them too – certainly that’s what Fashion East alumna Richard Malone was thinking as his presentation morphed from the usual catwalk parade to a dance installation. The clothes themselves were a capsule collection of quilted and bold brights with plenty of back on show, his inspiration attributed to functional workwear and the humble apron.
If you’ve ever harboured dreams of running off and joining the carnival, might we suggest joining Isa Arfen’s? The designer rendered her signature jewel brights into harlequin prints and ruffled cascading silks for her roof-top presentation.
The long and the short of it at J JS Lee was playing with and swapping around traditional tailoring design details – so that a lapel swooped and descended all the way to the bottom of the coat or a belt fastened up high across the bust. A conceptual take on countryside dressing.
Marques Almeida Fashion Show Ready to Wear Collection Fall Winter 2017 in London (by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)
And, finally, bringing LFW to a close was schedule favourite Marques’ Almeida. They started out in denim, cemented their status as the masters of, and have over time moved away from it to explore a more real-life way of wearing clothes, expanding into all things not denim. They’re still very much a hot ticket and when you think of them in terms of fashion capital comparisons, Vetements would be your orientating label landmark. They are champions also of featuring their friends on the catwalk and in their campaigns, taking inspiration from the way they wear the clothes. Here, amid the boxier cuts and Beetlejuice monochrome stripes and the splaying sleeves and loose shapes, it was the aviator jackets (a great copper one) and the more fitted of the dresses that stood out. It was a bold and bright continuation from last season, fun with it – but one can’t help but think it would be nice to see a return to that original denim wizardry.
But London Fashion Week isn’t just about fashion – by which we mean there’s jewellery and accessories to take into consideration, too. And even more so now as big jewellery name Astley Clarke made for a new addition to the schedule, having crowned London designer Dominic Jones its Creative Director last season. “Taking Astley Clarke on to the LFW schedule is both a statement of intent for the brand and a nod to my own history,” noted Jones, whose own eponymous label was a long-standing hit on the London fashion scene. He won the British Fashion Council NEWGEN award for his first jewellery collection, Tooth and Nail, and then went on to win it a further four times in a row. “Taking jewellery into a fashion context is part of my core approach as a designer as I feel the way in which the fashion industry speaks to its customers and to a broader culture is a lot more visually exciting, inclusive and modern,” he said. “It’s been about celebrating what is working, adding new layers and approaches. It’s come quite naturally, I had no interest in trying to turn this into my old brand, that was never an urge I’ve had to balance.” And that’s an interesting point to hear from a designer. “I was talking to a friend about it and the easiest way I could convey what it has been like was to compare it to using a new musical instrument - before I was percussion, now I’m using strings and brass. It is a completely different process of working and creating sounds, but it is still my music.” For Fall/Winter 2017, that music comprises three collections, two fine – entitled Astronomy and Phototaxis – and one contemporary, Calder. Sleek, modern and bold, some more delicate pieces too, there’s a selection to cover a broad spectrum of jewellery tastes. It's such a personal thing to wear, after all.