Givenchy Menswear Fall Winter 2015 Paris
At Givenchy, designer Riccardo Tisci took his suiting to a dark and dramatic place. In a venue filled with a treasure trove of spooky antiques that looked lifted from the classic horror TV show of the 80s called Friday the 13th: The Series — about the hunt to recuperate cursed objet d’art — the designer looked to be possessed with quite a few potent ideas.
Down a shimmering ruby red glitter-covered runway something wicked this way came. Models, their faces masked in sequined skulls or demented Joker makeup and their lips clamped shut by metal sutures, appeared in powerful attire. The devil was in the details as pitch black suits came outlined in red, the motif of a voodoo high priestess's carpet bag was spelled into shimmering sequined suits, and the muscle of a gangster's pinstripe suit was undercut by button-up fitted knit skirts.
Other disturbing yet compelling creations included a Freddy Krueger top, what looked to be a skinned teddy bear jacket and haunting layered t-shirts in semi-sheer fabric that gave images of a hollowed-out skull, or the inference of dried blood, a sense of depth.
Also bedeviled by Tisci were a number of breathtakingly beautiful womenswear pieces. Translucent slip dresses that used the model’s own skin as an integral component to their shimmering gypsy lace, silver beadwork or devoree black velvet base.
What came across most clearly in this enthralled collection was that Tisci looked to be once again fully focused on Givenchy and the legacy his work is bringing to the brand. There is no question that the house, and fashion, will be haunted by his talents for years to come.