Dolce & Gabbana Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Milan
Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are seeing red. And it has nothing to do with their current judicial headaches. No, finally after more then a few seasons of mining the many facets of Sicily the duo has turned their attention to Spain. A place that is currently very close to Gabbana’s heart.
And as the designers like to hop onto an idea and ride it for all its worth, this time they literally took the bull by the horns and made the Spanish sport of bull fighting their starting point. So the toreros: matadors, picadors and banderilleros came to life on the catwalk in designer jacquard boleros and jackets covered in swags of ornamental embroidery. Cropped pants and velvet slip on shoes or shaggy pony hair covered sandals finishing off the look.
As an alternative to all the three-dimensional embellishments, the designers proffered up the same ensembles in two-dimensional substitutes that saw the ornamentation morph into a printed fabric. Other, more commercially viable options included some fun vintage bullfighter posters or Spanish tile motifs blown up big on oversized sporty three quarter sleeve tops. The classic graphic polka dot pattern favored by flamingo dancers also looked wearable as a business suit when compared to the other suiting options on offer by the designers for next summer. Although the last eight exits- all impeccably tailored three-piece suits- did have a certain je ne sais quoi to their glossy bright head to toe hues.
To be sure this collection will be in hot demand for glamorous fashion magazine shoots, with its vivid and easy to understand message. But it would have been nice if the duo had taken a page out of the classic children’s book The Story of Ferdinand, about a bull that would rather sit and smell the flowers then fight in the arena. Tempering just a bit of their bull fighting bravado. But that suggestion might just be like raising a red flag in front of the eyes of these designers. Baiting them to create even more grandiose sartorial concepts.