Dior Homme Menswear Fall Winter 2015 Paris
The effect of the Dior Homme show on the fashion set here in Paris began hours before its afternoon start time. On Instagram, Twitter and other social media outlets, images of coat lapels and tops started popping up covered in flower motif stickers. Guests of the show had appropriated Dior's sticker covered invitations and created their own ephemeral outerwear embellishments.
This instinctual response could almost be seen as a metaphor for the collection that designer Kris Van Assche produced for the house. He too went looking for a modern way to make classic tailored menswear more personal and therefore approachable.
Before the first model even made it onto the catwalk the designer was already hinting at his goal by outfitting the Paris Scoring Orchestra, which formed a single line down the center of the runway, in traditional formal dress and paired it with pristine white sneakers.
As the musicians played, Van Assche proceeded to unveil a highly polished collection that effortlessly blended precise black tie tailoring with just a soupçon of sporty vitality.
With each passing look the designer augmented the urban elements of his ensembles. Tuxedos first came with a smattering of pressed flower pins (echoing those stickers) and matching black baseball hats, then that most democratic of fabrics- denim- was woven into the mix. From there Van Assche injected pops of color- Yves Klein blue and lichen yellow- as he continued to mold the traditional with modernity. He loosened up his outerwear, reimagined tweeds, elongating jackets on suits and offered up some particularly winning long leather vests.
As the final notes from the orchestra faded away, the lingering thought was that this collection will be music to the ears of quite a lot of buyers.