Yohji Yamamoto Menswear Fall Winter 2011 Paris
A collection that deftly touched centuries and brushed decades: Victoriana met the future by pairing thick wool gabardine suits, chained waistcoats and white cotton shirts (band collars, wing collars, crisp buttoned down collars) with up to the minute trainer technology.
A palette of greys, greens, browns and solid black on loose, high waisted, belted trousers reminded one of wintry, rural Ireland.
As male models of all ages and sizes walked to the crystal clear, acoustic recordings of British musician Fink, some mopping their brows with thick handkerchiefs, characters from James Joyce' novel Ulysses came to mind.
Paired with Y3 trainers it was as if Leopold Bloom or Steven Dedalus had become time travelling journeymen since Joyce's beloved day in Dublin, 1904. The combination of music, clothes, models and pace evoked an inwardly confident man, unafraid of contemplation.
As the show progressed, the collection moved through heavy fishermen's jumpers, hoodies with tribal prints and velvet jackets or lapels; all Yamamoto clothing is manufactured in Japan.
Cherries, fish, lips, doves and bones appeared as motifs, ended by vintage erotica printed on smoking gowns that closed the show.
Soundtrack: This Is The Thing by Fink (http://www.myspace.com/finkmusic)