Viktor & Rolf Monsieur Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Paris
As sportswear continues its inexorable hybridization into men's wardrobes everywhere, Viktor & Rolf Monsieur continues to serve as a laboratory of sorts where the best specimens can be observed, glistening with experimental appeal yet strong enough to withstand the realities outside the test tube of fashion.
The season tells of casual Fridays and the last-minute overnight bag packed in haste, stuffed with a mixture of the week's wares and the better pieces of a gym kit. So far, a continuation to last season's narrative.
But while the pair previously hacked at the tenants of classical tailoring with tongue-in-cheek detailing and high-tech notions, here they flipped the board around and seemed to work sartorial heritage into an easy wardrobe.
Case in point, the humble t-shirt, a staple in anyone's kit. Cut in silk and with a trompe-l'oeil pocket detail, it fits the bill as an upmarket variation. But this is only the emerged tip of an iceberg of splicing and careful reengineering of staples. Rife with the small details that make any V&R exploration of a theme something of a thorough examination. In no particular order, the yellow detailing on a shirt collar giving the impression of shirt and tee layered; comfy ribbing at the ankle of a bottle green tuxedo trouser; a mesh knit sweater giving the impression of a mesh jersey; a shawl neckline, give that slick of sophistication with any bulk added; the 50s flavored abstraction of camouflage.
The refinement woven into a fresh young attitude felt spot on, and continues to point North on the road to menswear's current renaissance.