The Shape of Milan: Five Emerging Trends Plus Moschino
It was easy to suss out the mood in New York and London early on, both are cities in countries experiencing significant political strife right now. And designers were keen to express their views about it, be that through their collection inspiration, the clothing they wore for their end bow, or as a mini-manifesto/ode to caring and sharing in their show notes. And in a microcosmic sense (the world of fashion) both are cities that can be predicted before they've begun: New York is commercial and London is creative.
Milan? Well that's when trends begin to emerge. But we all know it's Paris that really sifts these out and cements them eventually. But they start to wander into action here. And already, accordingly, the mood has changed. So here are five trends to be getting on with, and then of course Jeremy Scott lives in his own wonderful and brilliant Moschino world, so let's take a look.
Prada Ready To Wear Collection Fall Winter 2017 Fashion Show in Milan (by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)
We saw them make an outing on Mrs Prada's catwalk last season, with flourishes here and there. This season they were back - and bigger. Feathers made for thick swathes at the bottom of dresses and skirts, seriously desirable ones at that, and were executed in a way that gave them weight as both a design decoration and as a style concept. Here they didn't feel dainty or dated, they felt fresh and new - the hallmark of course of Mrs Prada. At Fausto Puglisi, they were more Moulin Rouge, boudoir brazen on corset mini dress hems, meanwhile pink feathery glitter jackets were among the Les Copains line-up.
The Butterfly Effect
The inspiration for Francesco Scognamiglio and Les Copains, it was more literal with prints across bodycon or skater dresses at the former and more a concept based at the latter - or clocked as motif decoration on the ensembles that wavered between two worlds: fantasy and reality. Which perhaps didn't make for the most coherent of collections, though a gold top and trouser ensemble was the perfect balance and a highlight look that appeared part the way through the show.
Max Mara Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2017 Fashion Show in Milan (by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)
One of the best things about the Fall/Winter season from a purchasing perspective is the prospect of a new coat. And Milan has already offered plenty of alluring options. MaxMara, we want those teddybear-snug styles, all enveloping and retro-glam with pockets for hands and an added sense of nonchalance (an invisible but important accessory). Prada, we want those wide-collared, fuzzy jackets in crazy colours, oversized but just right. And Gucci, well with a collection that unified both menswear and womenswear for the first season, this was a massive collection and there's bound to be an option or two in there - especially for those who like colour and pattern and print and texture and have a magpie tendency. This was a same-again collection from Alessandro Michele, his costume mash-up navigating a vibrant wardrobe wonder. It's still working on the shop floor, so it's just fashion eyes that are beginning to flail a little it would seem.
Wiggle-as-you-walk pencil skirts with Mad Men appeal and slits at the front at MaxMara; Nineties feist and whiffs of Noughties punk at Fay; Francesco Scognamiglio's lithe, sheer silhouettes and those flashes of flesh at Prada for more slits that climbed pretty much the whole length of the leg. It's time to rethink all things sport and street. Put the bomber jacket away. Get those legs out.
Moschino Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2017 Collection in Milan (by Anna Palermo for NOWFASHION)
Colour Me Beautiful
MaxMara opened with a series of ruby red looks, moving onto rich chocolate brown; Emilio Pucci punched out fringe-drenched looks in shocking pink, tangerine and acid green; Prada teased with teal and pink and clashed away the colours; Gucci was obviously a rainbow of print and tone, a walking portrayal of Joseph's technicolor dream coat in a collection; and Fendi threw in some ruby numbers too - the boots, a coat and a dress. But those boots! Byblos, too, went bright and vivid for ribbon-thread dresses that shimmied as they sauntered and patchwork bright styles - skirts and dresses and bombers. What we're getting at is: don't be thinking fall is going to be a gloomy season. It will never be as dull in your wardrobe as it is overcast and dark outside, it's going to be very colourful. Sunglasses definitely required.
As slogans on your clothes go, "Handle with care", "This side up" and "caution" could go so very drastically wrong, if they were on a T-shirt, or the like. But, as Jeremy Scott knows how to inject humour into a collection and take the banal and make it fun, this wasn't even an option. This was the cardboard dress collection. This was recycling, the Moschino way; taking packing paper, cardboard and scotch tape (or at least the branded version), and later shower curtains and loo roll, sneakers and bath mats, and bubble wrap and transforming them all into fashion. And doing it well. Scott, surely the modern-day incarnation of the original Schiaparelli, gets the balance between the crazy, the commercial and the creative just right. Because on first read, all of the above don’t exactly conjure up an idea of what you might imagine to be in a collection. A student one, maybe. But that, again, is the thing: such is the precision and execution, the dosage of humour and wearability that only in the hands of Scott can such inspiration points work out so well. It's something students often try and get so wrong – so don't try this at home. On the Moschino catwalk, a loo roll bag works, a trainer bag works, as does a garment holder dress and another made of scotch tape, Moschino carrier bags, a bubble wrap dress, the shower curtain dress, the bag made from a long leather evening glove. That’s because they have gimmick appeal and call upon the humoured nature of the house’s heritage, and because Scott can mine this apparently from any inspiration point. Even removal packaging.