REVIEW | Schiaparelli's Neo Bohemian


As usual, Schiaparelli is one of Paris' must-see Haute Couture shows. Acquired by the Della Valle Group in 2006, the iconic brand founded by the early 20th century fashion icon Elsa Schiaparelli was relaunched with Marco Zanini at its helm and presented his first collection in Paris for the Spring 2014 Haute Couture season.


Schiaparelli Couture - Photo by Gio Staino for NOWFASHION


In 2015, Bertrand Guyon took over the maison's unique heritage and was appointed Creative Director – and his collections have been lauded so far, to say the least. In fact, Guyon has been able to honor Schiaparelli's eclectic legacy by focusing on a triptych of design qualities that is at the very core of the Schiaparelli DNA: an emancipated and intense feminine touch; playful trompe l'oeil details and effects; as well as a sophisticated silhouette. 
Gently deconstructed and subtly embroidered, Guyon's many draped and airy gowns for Fall/Winter 2017 are crafted from layered silk gauze and embellished with crystal and vinyl embroideries, as well as with glass tubes, lace patterns, and tulle ruché, making for a neo-bohemian look influenced by Schiaparelli's contemporaries, the French Surrealists. 


More notably, the maison's shocking pink signature color contrasts with the subtle and pearly hues of the Couture numbers, while patterns of suns, puzzle pieces, padlocks, and pierced hearts add a celestial, fortune-teller-ish influence to the collection. This comes as no surprise: this Surrealism and astrology flavored inspiration can be attributed to the activity of astronomer Giovanni Schiaparelli, Elsa Schiaparelli's uncle, who nicknamed his niece after the star constellation the 'Big Dipper,' upon observing that she had a penchant for asterism and astrology – in fact, this stellar constellation became the designer's trademark pattern, which was her good fortune symbol as well. 


Schiaparelli Couture - Photo by Gio Staino for NOWFASHION

In this context, two of Guyon's gowns stood out in particular: a figure-hugging dress crafted from navy and black silk gauze and polka dot tulle striped with bronze colored leather that came with cheeky star-shaped pasties, as well as a Mark Rothko-inspired dégradé tulle dress – to die for. 
 


Schiaparelli Couture - Photo by Gio Staino for NOWFASHION