REVIEW | MAISON MARGIELA'S DYSTOPIAN NEO-GLAMOUR

Ever since he arrived at the helm of the Maison, John Galliano has been pairing Margiela's eclectic DNA with a more glamorous and experimental touch, bringing the Maison's deconstructivist signature style and trompe l'oeil aesthetics to another level.


Maison Margiela Artisanal - Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti

This time around, Galliano explored this neo-glamorous style a tad further and pushed glamour-related style elements to the extreme. The embellishments, which included the models' many bejeweled red lips, glittery hair, and their organically shaped face jewelry pieces really stood out – in fact these chrome pieces were meant to mimic the famous necklines that are usually associated with the glamorous evening dress.

In addition, Galliano played with many embellishments, which included feathers,  crystals, and linoleum print blocks. ''While established symbols remain intact, inspiration for a new glamour is filtered through the eyes of the beholder. Glamour requires an audience,'' read an official statement of the Maison. 


Maison Margiela Artisanal - Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti

But there was also a decisively futuristic  feeling that served as a guiding thread throughout this collection, one that came with a dystopian flair – hence the conceptual wet look of the models and heavily deconstructed tailoring, wrapping and styling of the garments, as if the models had been dressed up upside down and in haste. The show's soundtrack was a fast-paced, dark electronic beat that underlined the very eclectic and primitive style of this Autumn/Winter 2017 Artisanal collection.

Craftsmanship-wise, this Artisanal collection was a continuation of the so-called 'filtrage' technique that John Galliano introduced two seasons ago. This basically means that different fabrics were superimposed on each other and that this layering ultimately resulted in various abstract compositions, such as rippled cardboards. Also to be noted, this season, for the very first time, the runway show was held at Maison Margiela's headquarters in Paris – and this was just a beautiful way to pay a tribute to Martin Margiela's unique heritage that is now more than ever celebrated and empowered by John Galliano. 


Maison Margiela Artisanal - Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti