Prada Menswear Spring Summer 2018 Milan
Fashion heroes in Prada
by Stefano Roncato - MFFashion
Eyes wide open. Trains rushing by. Figures stylized with skillful pen strokes. The giant room at Prada is transformed into a kaleidoscopic cartoon, with designs all over the walls, hidden and then revealed through cracks in the roof. “It’s a story within a story,” Miuccia Prada explained to MFF, one which she put in the hands of Ollie Schrauwen and James Jean to indulge her ultimate passion, cartoons. Designs which become unique prints, appearing on blousons in generous proportions, tucked into bum bags and carried upside down like K-ways. The designs seem ominous, like the prophetic artworks in the TV series Heroes, with an added touch of Sin City. At first glance, the eye immediately blends the real with the design, blending skin, bones and stylized silhouettes of superheroes wearing the clothes of the season: workwear with voluminous sleeves, worn with high collars, like the shirts they hide. The soundtrack changes suddenly during the show, a lightning bolt of energy that comes out in the super styling of the rest of the collection. Light and heavy, stripes and technical shorts, featherweight knits, winter weight high waisted trousers with tops tucked in, waists cinched with belts. Logo patches were a distinctive new feature, reinforcing the technical-sporty mood on sneakers and socks which alternated with studded sandals and lace ups.
INTERVIEW/Miuccia Prada, it is time to pay attention to menswear
By Stefano Roncato - MFF Magazine for Fashion
Leggi l'articolo in italiano: http://bit.ly/2sFzGzg
What inspired this vision?
I found myself between two worlds, two ideas. On one side, virtual reality, like Carne y Arena (by Alejandra G at the Fondazione Prada). And my obsession of the last two months - comics - which are actually the opposite of a virtual reality: simple, human, made by hand. They are fragments of a story and reality, they correspond to all the things that affront us in all these different methods of communication. In our case, they are incomplete stories. No manga, no super heroes. These cartoons also contain visions of the world in the future.
The whole room is covered in them, did you want to involve the audience?
They are also on the clothes, it’s a story within a story.
Why are you doing a dedicated menswear show?
It’s time to take stock and make a point. We’ve just done a dedicated cruise show for women. Sometimes the womenswear show gets more attention, by really the same attention should be dedicated to the men’s show. It is important.
Is this a new obsession with menswear?
All simple cotton and nylon is our story, it’s a light and happy collection.
Do you need this lightness?
It depends on the day. We move from tragedy to survival. It is an interesting moment because there are lots of contrasts. I instinctively save the human part: the true, the real. Love, death, loving it all. For example, there is a huge dichotomy in technology. How do we use it? We shouldn’t forget the human aspect.
What do you think about once a show is over?
It’s over. (Laughs) I work on ten shows a year, that’s basically one a month. They are all part of one single story.