Prada Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Milan
This season Miuccia Prada had a need for speed. Younger, faster, shorter – get the goods and get out. It was a message the designer hammered home via every aspect of this show.
There was a set of translucent corrugated sheets of fiberglass suspended from above, which created a condensed show space and gave a slipstream focus to the catwalk. The collection’s many emoticon-esque motifs – rabbits, rockets, racing cars, red arrows – all alluded to movement and swift action. As did the silhouettes of short shorts on the men and mini dresses on the women.
Even the design details – the long pull-tab zippers on knit tops, the shimmering sequins on a car coat, or the overflowing of layers of fabric spilling out from the waistline, or pooling at a model’s wrists – all accelerated the idea of alacrity. As did the dissonant splice and dice motifs Prada pulled together on pleated skirts and dresses.
Everything was hurried up.
Models walked the runway with unkempt hair, the boys with their mussy curls and the girls with unfinished updos – no time to waste. They were in such a rush that the men's glossy leather jackets were barely zipped onto the body, hanging off the shoulders like air-filled hunchbacks. Their silk button-up shirts also looked as if they had been thrown on at the last minute, like a nonchalant afterthought.
This show was racing head first into the future. Trying to capture what was coming, before it whizzed by in the blink of an eye, to become a distant memory.