Prada Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Milan
Walking into the Prada show space on Sunday evening was like stepping back in time. Into a hyper stylized vision of the 1970s. Where guests were treated to a deep pile brown rug covering steps, seating, and set. Its rich shade offset by an equally intense lapis lazuli blue wading pool framework for the catwalk.
Without a doubt this decade is Miuccia Prada’s sartorial safety zone. Its peculiar color palette, distinctive silhouettes, and unusual prints have been the inspiration for some of Prada’s most daring and directional collections. But that did not seem to be the designer mission this season. Instead, relatively speaking, she reined things in.
This was a collection that followed a much more conservative slant. Where suits, coats and skirts- men and women both walked in the show- came outlined in contrasting stitching. Sweaters were of the rather conventional v-necked diagonal stripe variety. And denim jeans trimmed in brown leather were probably some of the most conventional garments to grace a Prada catwalk in decades.
So sober was this realist show that when the designer reintroduced the contrasting stitching concept - this time featuring crystal beading- it gave the collection a bit of a jolt. After being lulled into a false sense of security by all that preceded it, the crystals covered ensembles, which in any other Prada collection would have been considered the tame daywear, helped lighten the mood of this down to earth offering by one of fashion’s forefront designers.