PFW: The Story So Far
The Great Trouser Tale
Pinstriped and slit or strapped and buckled, pulled in or ruched at Aalto; tiered culotte-style at Anrealage; a squiggly street-ruched-seam silhouette at Y/Project; the perfect blended pocket seams at Guy Laroche; all-over glitter and wide-wide legs or pinched into a carrot-top shape at Wanda Nylon; tight and suede or tie-dyed and loose at Balmain; and Michael Jackson-style at Faith Connexion: we’re talking trousers. Complete with new-season bells and whistles, there are lots of them taking a turn down the Paris catwalks. It’s enough to make you stop, stare, and reconsider just how you go about building your outfit next season. It could just be about the right time for the Trophy Trouser.
Aalto Fashion Show Ready to Wear Collection Fall Winter 2017 in Paris (by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)
The Strong Pink Trend
Shocking, electric and macaroon, pink is taking the lead when it comes to the colour of the season. From Cyclas to Rochas, Guy Laroche and Manish Arora (where sleeves were encrusted in pink beading), Neith Nyer, Lanvin. And the pink upside-down handbags at Jacquemus - where the accessories really were standout. It’s shaping up to be a season that requires a definite splash of this shade.
Guy Laroche Women Fashion Show Ready to Wear Collection Fall Winter 2017 in Paris (by Elizabeth Pantaleo for NOWFASHION)
It’s perhaps no surprise to see dresses that shimmer on the Fall/Winter 2017 catwalks. Because that translates into party season off the catwalk. But we’ve seen some real bling-y stunners so far. After what began as an elegant and demure collection from Alessandro Dell’Acqua at Rochas, suddenly amped up when a gold-dipped fringe-tasselled dress paraded out: it could have been mistaken for a real-life Oscar. Manish Arora, of course, is known for his attention to all things shiny. And this collection, with its inspiration anchored in “cosmic love” meant that there were plenty of opportunities to shower the shimmer. The planet bags were novel and fun, the velvet boots bedecked in shine. Of course, there is only one designer for whom the crown of bling can go to, and that is Olivier Rousteing at Balmain. He took the idea of heavy metal back to its core, in a collection that picked back up where the menswear outing just over a month ago had left off: music. Rousteing had spoken of their inextricable link then, and there’s no doubt that music makes a mood. Here it was, Nirvana with old-school rock, and on the catwalk mega-molten looks: streaming in gold beads and chains and sequins, dresses dripped with fringing and embellishment, studwork and luxe skins. Warrior women, these are, and this outing merely a consolidation of what we had seen before – the womenswear looks among the menswear show (because that’s what designers do these days) had been more T-shirt and tunic style, as though fan merchandise of the highest fashion extreme. Looks here were more body-contouring, swathes of knit later replaced the splay of metalwork on show.
Balmain Ready To Wear Collection Fall Winter 2017 Fashion Show in Paris (by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)
Fall/Winter 2017 marked the last collection from Clare Waight Keller for Chloe, and as such was a reprise of her hits while there; which had always managed to successfully mine the bohemian Chloe girl originally created by founder Gaby Aghion. Under Waight Keller’s tenure, it had been cutesy and girly, feminine and sweet – babydoll dresses and bib-front frills. Dainty sleeves, short-short lengths and plenty of good dresses – be they short and swingy or maxi and hippy, and she even managed to have a hit with a tracksuit, too. This time round her little dresses received the addition of lumberjack plaid shirt-jackets or an updated version of that Nineties naff classic, the fleece. Here, they’re not naff at all. Waight Keller’s Chloe girl has had a strong DNA, and this was a great collection to make her exit with. The rumour mill cites Natacha Ramsay-Levi, Nicholas Ghesquiere’s right-hand at Louis Vuitton, as next in line for the role. Will Paris Fashion Week be the time to confirm this?
Chloe Fashion Show Couture Collection Fall Winter 2017 in Paris (by Regis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION)