Paul Smith Menswear Fall Winter 2011 Paris
Cosmic rock met space travel in a strong show that immediately plugged us right back into Smith’s continuing and very pleasurable odyssey through rock’n’roll. Show notes acknowledged an homage to the spirit of Captain Beefheart and the first models walked to Pink Floyd’s One Of These Days. Dashes of silver on coats and bags plus zips denoted mans early voyages into outer space.
The sartorial vibe was laid back, layered yet with plenty of sharp details throughout while the silhouette often matched large coats with slim cut trousers. For example, a hulking puffa with shearling trim went over a grey marl suit and crisp shirt with the sleekest of collars. A camel coloured, double-breasted version of the Teddy Boy coat went over slim trousers in subtle animal print. Later, a mustard coloured duffel coat (with attention given to the high design of the neck) was paired with slim, beige trousers, patched at the knee. Oversized cable knits were accessorised with large away bags, grey timber boots and silver jewelry.
Smith’s talent, proven solidly throughout his career, is to keep the Smith man on top of the latest trends yet always interpreted with the signature design notes that he (and they) favour ie. tailoring and Britishness (Prince Of Wales check, Teddy boy references and bottle green, all present in this collection). Whether they be in the city, at a football match or on a week-end away with Withnail & I, Paul Smith keeps his designs continually relevant to the interests and sartorial eye of his audience.
Soundtrack: Pink Floyd, One Of These Days. Captain Beefheart, Electricity. The Oscillation, Liquid Memoryman.