Milan and the Fashion-Induced Trip
MILAN—All in clean fun. The Milan 2018/19 Fall/Winter fashion shows kicked off hard with a surrealist spirit – and, frankly, there were moments when we were just trippin’.
GUCCI FW18 show in Milan. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.
Alessandro Michele unleashed what seemed like his elaborate unconscious or a salute to surrealist painters like Giorgio de Chirico. His latest Gucci show was dubbed “Cyborg” after Donna Haraway’s 1984 essay “A Cyborg Manifesto” and included a juxtaposition of images – models with eyeballs on their foreheads and models holding dragons and decapitated clones of their own likeness. A surgery bed served as a centerpiece and a symbol of how Michele’s vocation often calls him to be a “surgeon” and approach fashion in a “scientific” way – or so he was quoted by journalists backstage.
MOSCHINO FW18 show in Milan. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
Fashion also took on a sinister tone at Moschino where models dressed in clone versions of Jackie O – the front row saw their faces swiftly turn from normal human shades to painted in orange, green, yellow. Jeremy Scott based his collection on the conspiracy theory that JFK told Marilyn Monroe that aliens were real, infused with his own theory that Jackie Kennedy was an alien herself.
VIVETTA FW18 show in Milan. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
Vivetta Ponti of the Vivetta label also got freaky with her “My First Forty Years” collection that seemed like a tribute to the pop 80s. Her hallmark, these Dalì-esque red nail polish painted fingers, were curiously strewn about this season – into collars on shoulders and made into vests. Surrealist prints of hearts and bubbles and faces were all symbols from this fantasy world that Ponti is known for.
PRADA FW18 show in Milan. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
Miuccia Prada incited a lot of intrigue with her latest – a collection of futuristic ensembles fashioned with technical material juxtaposed with fuchsia, yellow, and blue. Black stilettos and white boots were matched with fluorescent socks and exaggerated leg warmers.
Emerging designer Nicola Brognano was also uninhibited from unleashing his unconscious.
Brognano, an under 30 “Who’s on Next” winner from Calabria, took more of an academic approach using Bauhaus director Ludwig Mies van der Rohe’s architecture as a building block.
BROGNANO FW18 show in Milan. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
“He loved white and the spaces and light, which give start to the beginning of the show where it’s white and light and then there are touches of silver. I imagine a model living there... in this house and his world.”
Brognano showed off his talent with impeccably tailored ensembles with a real luxury finish. Foil textured materials and asymmetrical silhouettes showed off his modernist spirit.
“In the end, it’s all about fantasy. It’s a trip,” Brognano said.
See GUCCI's full FW18 collection here.
See MOSCHINO's full FW18 collection here.
See VIVETTA's full FW18 collection here.
See PRADA's full FW18 collection here.
See BROGNANO's full FW18 collection here.