Louis Vuitton's Louvre Spectacular
An overwhelming theme of fashion week has been, understandably, what's happening in the world today - border enforcement, travel restrictions, the closing off of a world we once knew as celebratory, embracing and diverse.
The Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2017 ready-to-wear show in Paris (by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)
Louis Vuitton is a house whose heritage resides in travel, and so Nicholas Ghesquiere used this as a basis to explore the former, staging his Fall/Winter 2017 collection at the Musee du Louvre, "a borderless space where culture invites everyone to embark on an adventure".
He cited American sportswear, Slavic notes, urban classics and folklore as reference points, an eclectic and cross-curated mix. Because that was the point: how we live our lives today and consequently how we dress. There are no borders between occasions so much anymore and the concept of daytime and nighttime dressing has become a little archaic. So here we had pieces that tapped into each time of the day and meant that you would look on point at any one of them. This is the modern world.
This was a great collection, cool and sassy, and with a softer feeling overall among those signature LV silhouettes: the tight and neat tailoring, kick-flare trousers and the scuba-svelteness. But it was the dresses that were the show-stealer.
A couple of frilled bias cut numbers at first and then into a series of slips that were seemingly collaged together with florals. They were as boudoir as they were cleverly crafted, and never looked remotely too twee. These were sassy and these were cool. As were those that came cape-backed to give a whole new dimension to the humble dress.
It was a more layered collection than we've seen before, less austere and sharp but nonetheless focused for it. Chains dropped from wrists which looked elegant; and later when they switched to hanging at the hip the attitude changed. From sophisticated to hip in one length of chain. Clever. It's just about context.
Classics and new ideas, there were indeed many an adventure to be had with this collection.