Givenchy Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2016 New York
In shades of black and white and against the backdrop of the Freedom Tower lit up like a beacon of light shooting into the darkness to mark the 14th anniversary of the 9/11 terrorists attacks, designer Riccardo Tisci, with the help of his good friend and modern artist Marina Abramović, presented a moving collection in New York that spoke to transparency and freedom.
Putting aside the living art installations (a man holding rootless trees, a woman getting drenched by flowing water, a man climbing a ladder into the sky) that kept audience members – including those who were lucky enough to get their hands on one of the 820 tickets the brand put up for sale – entertained until the 6:30pm show finally got underway at 7:30pm, there was much to admire about this show.
Woven throughout the entire event, which was viewed by the likes of Kim Kardashian, Kanye West, Julia Roberts, Nicki Minaj, Amanda Seyfried, Steven and Liv Tyler, Victor Cruz, Debbie Harry, Margot Robbie, Uma Thurman, Ciara, Courtney Love, Erykah Badu, Hailee Steinfeld, and almost every famous working fashion designer in NYC, was a respectful reverence for the historic date on which the show took place.
In a note that Abramović wrote to Tisci that was given out at the show, the artist talked about her need to have a humble approach in her artistic direction of the event. She crafted a set from recycled materials to eliminate waste. She uses powerful live music from six different religions as the show’s soundtrack and she gave the entire evening a contemplative core thanks to her aforementioned living art pieces.
For his part, Tisci took Abramović’s commitment to inclusiveness to heart. Not only did he mix together men’s and women’s ready-to-wear on the catwalk, he wove in some impressive couture pieces as well. He also turned to the world of the boudoir, with layers of transparent lace and smooth silks that slide over the model’s bodies, as a way to represent the world at its most vulnerable. After all, isn’t it in the bedroom where we are at our most exposed, most transparent, most open? Isn’t that where everyone finally learns to trust?
But before the world gets naked, the women and men who will wear Tisci’s latest collection will enjoy the easy sensual comfort of this offering. Customers will be drawn to how the designer created diagonal faux pleating across the bodice of lace baby doll dresses, as if the wearer had been pressed up against something (or someone) for a very long time. They will admire the louche slouchy beauty of a pair of easy cut silk pants. Or even the naughty practicality of school boy city shorts for men and roomy sheer lace panel tops for the ladies. However, the slide on boots with the long laces – that tripped up quite a few of the models – might get a pass.
This collection could have gone dark, which Tisci has done in the past, but instead by keeping the silhouettes loose and forgiving he made the lineup that much more inviting and universal in its appeal. Honestly, who in the world doesn’t feel good wearing silk and lace?