Fashion in a Flash #3
Paris Fashion Week is the last leg of the international shows and widely acknowledged as being the most important one. Which means lots of clothes to look at. Here, we cut to the chase and pick the looks that define the collections, epitomise the fashion capital’s new-season mood, or those that are making style headlines. Click back daily for updated instalments. It’s fashion in a flash!
from left to right: Rick Owens (by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION), Atlein (by Elizabeth Pantaleo for NOWFASHION), Chloé (by Regis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION), Balmain (by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION), Manish Arora (by Regis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION)
SIMPLICITY IS KING AT ATLEIN
For his debut runway show in Paris Antonin Tron, Creative Director of Atlein, played it safe, offering a subtly sophisticated collection that focused on quality fabrics and tailoring. The simple, figure-hugging two-tone ribbed knit dress that opened the show epitomises the 'less is more' mantra of Atlein's collection.
BALMAIN'S GOLDEN GIRLS
Gold, bling, streamers and strands of beads and sequins, stud work and plenty of eyeliner, this picked right back up from where Rousteing's menswear collection left: music's influence on fashion. Rock out.
UNEXPECTED GLAMOUR AT ANN DEMEULEMEESTER
Over the past seasons, Sebastien Meunier has proved to be strong supporter of Ann Demeulemeester's signature style: he remained faithful to the Edwardian jackets, billowing layering, slim pants, romantic blouses, and soft tailoring. But this season he added a surprisingly sensual touch to his collection. And this unexpected - but much welcomed - glamour was at its best when showcased in the form of a black, softly deconstructed women's suit worn with a silk blouse and adorned with strass applications. Sensual yet empowering to say the least.
A COSMIC PARTY AT MANISH ARORA
Happy birthday Manish Arora! The designer celebrated his tenth anniversary with a glittering array of birthday suits (dresses and dirndl skirts, too) for a party of bejewelled, patchwork and encrusted embroidery and beading. He took his inspiration from "cosmic love" and tribes in Africa. Pay close attention to the velvet embroidered booties and planet bags.
FAREWELLS AND CLASSICS AT CHLOE
The Chloe girl, under Clare Waight Keller's tenure, has always been about escaping. Bohemian and carefree, this is the feeling that has underpinned her collections - today's at its absolute epitome as cute and girly bib-front dresses in babydoll styles signalled her farewell - as the designer exits the house this season.
ISABEL MARANT: GLITTER ME BEAUTIFUL
Glitter socks with glitter shoes and glitter tops, one can clearly never have enough of the stuff in the world of Isabel Marant this season. Let yourself shine!
OFF-WHITE: WORD ON THE STREET
Fashion loves a streetwear reference and it loves a rumour - both can be found at Off-White, the label from Virgil Abloh whose name is currently doing the rounds as a potential candidate for the new opening at Givenchy. Back on the catwalk, and plaid tailoring, pencil skirts and bustier dresses got us imagining what that might look like in his hands, this a decidedly more elegant proposition from the label.
DONNIE DARKO BUNNIES AT RICK OWENS
Rick Owens – the master of all things dark, conceptual and intellectual – did it again: playing with exaggerated volumes and proportions seems to have become a sort of fetish within the designer's style inventory. And this season, the bulky and rounded women's silhouettes were even adorned with bunny-ears resembling headpieces. Over the past seasons, Rick Owen's fashion shows have moved away from ready-to-wear in order to evolve into wearable contemporary art – and we thank him for that.