Fashion in a Flash #1
Paris Fashion Week is the last leg of the international shows and widely acknowledged as being the most important one. Which means lots of clothes to look at. Here, we cut to the chase and pick the looks that define the collections, epitomise the fashion capital’s new-season mood, or those that are making style headlines. Click back daily for updated instalments. It’s fashion in a flash!
from left to right: Lanvin (by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION), Maison Margiela (by Elizabeth Pantaleo for NOWFASHION), Aalto (by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)
Suits Versus Frocks at Lanvin
Bouchra Jarra is now two seasons in at Lanvin. Her own aesthetic is one of sharp lines and precision cuts, she hails from the school of Ghesquiere after all. Lanvin’s aesthetic under Alber Elbaz – whose footsteps she follows in – was fun, warm, girly and soft. At the helm, she maintains her exacting style, with some froufrou frocks thrown in. This collection was about masculine separates in tactile fabrications for a feminine feel.
Bag Hair Day at Margiela
A fringed bag. It might look good on your arm, but it looks even better worn on your head! John Galliano, the king of subversive fashion, turns things upside down at Maison Margiela. The key looks of this quite emotional show included statement pieces that featured a continuation of the décortiqué technique already used for the Spring/Summer Artisanal collection. A sophisticated take on constructing and deconstructing women's tailoring, adding a little edge with these now famous bags. Or should we call them headpieces?
Tailor-made Tailoring at Aalto
Fashion got lost there for a little bit under all those street-style-real-style layers. They were baggy and they were confusingly cool. Then Aalto arrived, with a batch of masculine tailoring - cut-and-paste style – which took a new direction. Hello separates with shape! Yes, some seemed partially constructed but the execution was spot on, no fuss.
From left to right: Y/Project (by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION), Jacquemus (by Elizabeth Pantaleo for NOWFASHION), Saint Laurent (by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)
The New Way to Pile It On at Y/Project
Y/Project added an innovative – and literal – layer of sophistication for its Fall/Winter 2017 collection. Froth (yes, you read right) and frou piled up around hoodies, satin-shine jackets, and trouser combinations, taking traditional daywear and streetwear into new realms. The silhouette to note here was wibbly-wobbly – those wader boots that crinkled as they climbed the leg, and slouched tracksuit trousers.
The Return of the Silhouette at Jacquemus
Curvaceous and shapely, svelte and sculpted; Jacquemus rediscovered the figure in a collection that was an homage to an imaginary Parisian woman in love with a gypsy man. That was a nice backstory, but the big story was the return of defined shapes – waists and hips were the main focus of a substantial coat offering and cocktail frocks with ladybird-wing-shaped sleeves.
Puss in Boots at Saint Laurent
Less is more is a bit of an understatement these days. And even more so, if we are talking about a collection designed by Anthony Vaccarello. The young designer reputed for his celebration of all things feminine; a feminity that enjoys flirting with bad taste. A major sex appeal alert were Saint Laurent's crystal studded ruched boots – and all the other statement pieces on the runway that were indecently embroidered with sparkly crystals. Add ‘80s new wave and exaggerated leather ruffles on top and you get a sultry evening wear collection. Anthony Vaccarello knows how to bring sexy back.
from left to right: Paskal (by Elizabeth Pantaleo for NOWFASHION), Liselore Frowjin (by Regis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION)
Retro-future Bauhaus at Paskal
Things got personal at Paskal. During the final month of her pregnancy, Julie Paskal decided to explore Tel Aviv and reflect on the way the city's retro-futuristic Bauhaus style had influenced her. For Fall/Winter she expressed the city’s urban shapes and warm, almost exotic, feeling through her women's collection. Paskal mixed and matched both natural elements and technical ones, the result was desirable statement pieces crafted from lace and vinyl, adorned with 3D flowers in reflective fabric.
Baroque Out-of-Space at Liselore Frowjin
Inspired by Dutch sculptor Alfred Eikelenboom - who was himself influenced by both baroque paintings and natural environments - Frowjin provided a poetic, retro-future take on womenswear. The result was an outstanding collection that was probably her most avant-garde to date. Her outdoor flavored casual womenswear pieces, crafted from silk and wool featured sci-fi inspired prints as well as gradient prints and VLISCO wax patterns. Bold and beautiful.