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Esteban Cortazar Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2016 Paris

The effusive clapping that saluted the end of Esteban Cortazar's show was an oddity in the age of social souvenirs, as guests put down their phones to applaud his spring collection.

The precision tailoring that comes into action here is an accessory to success for deconstruction. Part punk, part futuristic neo-Amazon, Cortazar's woman is a confident one. Jackets were boxy, their metallic closures giving them a controlled rawness, echoed in the terra cotta python skin used liberally. The collection is body-conscious in a liberated way, putting it on display and constrained only by how much daring goes into one's dressing, or whether abs of steel are a preoccupation. But should they not be, those glorious shimmering blue gowns at the end could well be the answer.

That redefining what sexy means is one thing Cortazar will hold onto is visible. What is also crystal clear here is that he does everything on his own terms, design or retail-wise. And kowtowing to the short attention span of the market, he made sure to capitalize on that knee-jerk desirability by selling first, showing later.