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Emilio de la Morena Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2015 London

Emilio de la Morena’s signature cocktail dresses received a bit of an arthouse treatment this time as the designer referenced Picasso’s Harlequin as the seed of inspiration. Perhaps he was referring to the way the pieces were spliced and stitched along unexpected seams. Notions of play borne by the theme alluded to the unconventional twists on traditional dressmaking. Bodycon dresses married metallics with velvet while mini bells (like those on a jester’s hat) lined the seams of some of the pieces, making sounds as the models made their way down the catwalk. Despite the flurry of techniques employed, the fit of the dresses remained impeccably slender, which is a testament to Morena’s skill in tailoring to the female form.

Like the art of clowning, the collection’s strength lies in its elements of disruption. It was evident as the vivid horizontal motifs interjected the elegant lines of the final looks. For a designer who maintains a strong hold on evening wear each season, it was nice to see he’s having some fun.