Elie Saab Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2015 Paris
The sound of running water flowing through the vast white tent of the Espace Ephemere Tuileries in the heart of Paris had a soothing effect on harried reporters as the Paris show season entered its final stretch.
But the real reason Elie Saab selected the sounds of waves splashing was to reflect this season's theme of a plunge into the ocean in search of sunken treasures. He found dresses with a hidden beauty buried in the depths and hauled them up to the sartorial shore intact.
The intense colors, like oranges and blues, glistening sequined surfaces, and what the house called the "hidden beauty" of the underworld, was found reflected in the label's typically flowing elegant dresses and sequined garments, some of which looked as opulent as wedding dresses but designed in other colors or made bold with strong shades used in degrade work creating a sublime slide of colors in one look.
The technique was used on floor length dresses with long slits that began with bold colors that diminished as the gowns reached the floor. The idea was that of dresses being dipped in water.
This season, the designer broke with tradition and began the show with print dresses that looked like patterned scarves flying around the model in the ocean breeze, and cut to reveal bronzed legs and bordered with graphic black and white lines which gave a modern edge.
A mini dress with long sleeves and graphic black and white bordering was decorated in dreamy greens and oranges, like a coral spotted deep in the ocean, and a black sheer trouser suit decorated with patterns worked into the lace could have been the tattoo like surface or the skin of a translucent underwater creature.
Saab, like many designers this season, referenced the 1970s. But his 1970s was a glamorous and sophisticated affair. Think well dressed Dallas babes in long pants and shirts or glamorous evening wear.
Some of the details included lace that looked like sea foam or sequined dresses with a ripple effect, like the sun shimmering off the water.
It was a beautiful rich collection of princess mermaid gowns that employed sequins and draping to create sparkling objects of beauty, carried off by beautiful leggy women. A few had day jobs and lives and flirty paint suits to wear for those occasions.
Some of the dresses were so opulent in their underwater swirls of blues and oranges that they brought to mind the most beautiful fish in the ocean on show in a fine aquarium.
Where Saab comes into his own is with the lace and sequins that other designs sometimes miss the mark on. Here they looked as rich as fine jewels.