Did We Just See Donuts at JW Anderson?
Yes, we did. But let’s start from the beginning. Reconfiguration was at the centre of the JW Anderson Fall/Winter 2018 collection today – the designer showcasing his menswear and womenswear together for the first time. Which made complete sense given that he is a designer who began in menswear and so popular were his designs that he found himself with an avid female following and requests from buyers to fulfil their needs. He did just that. And ever since, the JW brand has gone from strength to strength, with Anderson remaining one of the capital’s most compelling and pioneering designers creating an aesthetic all his own and which has spawned multiple homages from others in his wake.
JW ANDERSON FW18 show in London. Picture courtesy of Guillaume Roujas.
“For me, women were buying men’s and vice versa, so now we were at a stage where it was better to do it as one. It’s always been menswear and womenswear,” he explained backstage – a quick chat with Raf before addressing his audience. Because contemporaneously, in the recent consciences of fashion, it was JW that bridged the gender gap – and today’s offering worked as just that: a complete offering of JW, whichever part of it you so wanted.
Be that punches of vivid paisley on frill-flounce blouses of a vintage feel: “We were going back to where we were so that’s why the paisley,” he said. Or drop-waist buckle trenches, their skirts pleated beneath the derrière to neatly cup it; utility leather trousers; degrade dresses of purple and yellow intensity; a Simpsons-fun colour palette for trainers and knits and donut motifs. “Comic references,” he pointed out. “Cartoon-like, the idea of naiveté and optimism; compared to what I do at Loewe, it’s a different age demographic. This is a different arm.”
The fun continued with fuzz-ball bunny brooches and a knitted jumper featuring a shirt woven among it, its accompanying tie now making a 3D real tie swinging down. It was all quite a lot more fun than perhaps anyone has ever had JW pegged down for. But it worked. Stripes, sequins, a continuation of last season’s earthy tones, and clothes that weren’t too complicated to wear: being able to see inside the whole JW world appears to have opened up a whole lot more opportunity for the man himself.
See JW Anderson's FW18 ready-to-wear colletion here.