3.1 Phillip Lim Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Paris
Seamlessly sliding from the locker room to the boardroom is shaping to be the defining current this week, and no one does sportswear better than American designers. Phillip Lim seemed to take this to heart in the inception of his collection, yet devoid of any upperclass pretense. He followed his inspiration to what felt like a baseball mood.
He knows how to combine with the elements that his inspiration brings for maximum impact. Playing on light layers gave the pieces and looks definition. Of particular charm were the silk Leatherman lookalikes, cut from silky material that looked as good as it must have been comfortable. What came out of the line-up was an impression of laid back, pared back designs focused on elegance without constriction. Most notably, the slightly oversized suit in referee pinstripes, the butter-soft leather crossover jacket snapped shut by a utility buckle - a recurring piece seen in different materials throughout - or the sleeveless popover with the dropped shoulder line all drove home the impression of quiet masculine power.
There were very few superfluous distractions, making this one of his purest collections yet.
And sometimes, digging further for a backstory for a purely enjoyable collection is a foul that fashion referees - present company included - need not commit. Lim demonstrated once again that his forte is taking familiar items and reworking them into covetable, marketable products.